Signing Off

My last day at Kendriya Vidyalaya Minambakkam was overwhelming. At the morning assembly, several students spoke about how much they enjoyed my classes. At assembly and all day long, students showered me with gifts, cards, cakes and well wishes. They mobbed me for my autograph; I felt like a rock star. They were smiling ear-to-ear and were genuinely appreciative of the time we have had together. The students in India demonstrate incredible affection for their teachers, which really crosses the line into adoration. The loftiness of the teaching profession is clear in the respect and admiration of the students.

Though India is incredibly diverse culturally, spiritually and socioeconomically, some things are consistent across the board. Appreciation for teachers is one. Patriotism is another. A few days ago, I was walking toward the morning assembly, quite late. A parent was a distance in front of me walking in the same direction. We were the only ones in the long hallway, but she did not know I was behind her. The national anthem began (just as it does each day at the end of the assembly), and the parent stopped walking to stand at attention. I stopped too. Not only did she stand with her arms straight at her sides, feet together and facing forward, but she also sang. Even alone in a hallway, she sang her national anthem simply because it was being played. I felt like I was eavesdropping on a private moment, but I suspect she would not have been the least bit embarrassed by her expression of love for her country.

I am so grateful to have had this opportunity to travel to India to get a little glimpse of life here. Adaptation is never easy, and many moments have been frustrating and difficult. But, even more have been touching, revealing and even hilarious. So many people have made an effort to make us comfortable. I cannot begin to express how much I appreciate the kindness of the friends we have made and the friends at home who helped as well. I know this exchange has caused a great deal of inconvenience on both sides of the globe. Please accept my heartfelt thanks as well as apologies for my errors, which have been many.

I have some great stories to tell, but the total of this experience is greater than the stories. From India, I can see my own culture’s values, prejudices, tendencies and habits in a way that is invisible at home. Every culture has its own strengths and weaknesses – and I have learned about my own as well as about India’s. India certainly has immense gifts to offer the world, and I am thankful to have had a chance to see them. The goal of diversity should be more than simple tolerance. I want to look around, see what works, and do more of that. It’s like tipping your feathers a tiny bit during flight. That small lean causes dramatic changes.

Best Regards,

Amy

Seventh Grade Boys

Seventh Grade Girls

Eighth Graders

Eleventh Graders

Happy Pongal

Pongal is a harvest festival to thank the sun for his generosity. The elementary students performed a pageant with dances and a story of Pongal, which is celebrated all over India. At 10 am Friday, an announcement was made that school was cancelled for Monday to celebrate the holiday!
I have one more teaching day before I depart for the US. The staff held a farewell ceremony to mark the end of my exchange, and I am grateful for all the patience and support I have been shown. I have felt like a first year teacher again, unsure of the procedures and expectations.

Telling the story of Pongal.

Girls doing traditional dance.

Boy's traditional dance.

The principal presents a gift from the staff.

Mrs. Malar, In the beautiful pink sari, has been my mentor at KVM.

Wedding Reception

We had a beautiful evening at the wedding reception for Mrs. Daisy's son and new wife. Literally thousands of people came to wish happiness to the new couple. The venue was dazzling, the food extraordinary and the brilliant colors of the women's dresses were stunning. I have never seen anything like it.

Tempered

Now that I have graded some big piles of exams, I have tempered my opinion of the Indian educational system. Sometimes students would write several sentences that they had memorized out of the book that did not address the question that was asked. Sometimes, they wrote verbatim definitions when logic was needed. And, frequently, they could not answer novel conceptual questions. If I chose a problem from the book, many more students got it – because they clearly study the answers. However, when I wrote a question that required application of understanding – bomb. (I have a very few notable exceptions – maybe 5% of the students have phenomenal creative reasoning ability, matched with an amazing breadth of memorized information. WOW! Those few are unstoppable. Students like that come along once in awhile in the US [Yes, Jeremy, I mean you, master of parentheses.].) Generally speaking, Indian students demonstrate a definite lack of overall comprehension and ability to apply concepts. I have a clear example. The question was about how many spectral lines would be formed when an electron drops from principal energy level 6 to level 2 in an atom. I drew the levels on the board showing the nucleus in the middle and started putting arrows in to show the possible transitions (level 5 to level 4 or 3 or 2, level 4 to 3 or 2, level 3 to level 2, etc.). A student raised her hand and said that was not how she solved the problem. I invited her to show me her solution. She wrote out a mathematical formula, which she had memorized, and put in the level numbers. She did get the right answer, but I wonder if she knew what the answer meant? In the US, I would never ask students to memorize a formula if the answer can be derived by thinking about a model.

And teaching middle school is very instructive about where this issue comes from. A question asked how plants draw in water and nutrients. I said the answer was ‘evaporation’ because water evaporates from the leaves and creates ‘suction’. The students went wild with shouts. They said that was not right. They pointed to a sentence in the book or showed me the answer key – which is readily available. The answer, they said, was transpiration. Transpiration is explained to be evaporation of water from the leaves. I said that both answers were correct, and they did not like that at all.

Students copy the answers right out of the key or right off each other’s papers. I suspect that only a small percentage of students actually write their own answers. This is standard procedure. Standard procedure here assumes that copying a few sentences is the same as gathering the information from lecture or from reading text and constructing an answer. The students are not expected to do their own work as long as they memorize. Review for the exam requires asking for many, many definitions of words.

The rampant plagiarism is another good example. Eleventh graders were asked to write an essay on a chemistry topic. I was asked to choose the best ones. With well over 50 papers, only three were not completely copied and pasted from the internet. At least US students know to remove the underlined links and the footnote numbers! The vast majority of students did not even write introductory or closing paragraphs of their own. They honestly do not have the skill to research and write.

The work ethic in India is still an order of magnitude stronger than the US, but I can see why the West is still producing more creative and flexible minds. Figuring out how to produce students with the discipline and memory skill of Indian students and the creativity and thinking skills of US students would be the magic combination.

We will be going home in three weeks. In some ways, the time has passed very quickly, and, in other ways, it seems an eternity. Such is India.

Thane's Damage

Flattened grass hut to the left and downed palms.

Debris removal.

Lots of big trees down and others with the tops ripped off.

We stayed an extra night when we heard that hurricane Thane (category 1) was headed toward Chennai. It actually hit land significantly south of Chennai, but not far enough south to be a danger to us. We had been scheduled to take the train right through that area on our way home. We cancelled our train tickets and stayed an extra night. We are very glad to have waited. We had heavy rain for two days, but the town was still lovely and picturesque. We took a cab home (Eight hours for $100) and drove through Thane’s damage. We saw downed trees, smashed huts and downed power lines for about 100 miles. The brick and mortar buildings were fine, with the notable exception of a car dealership that was quite beat up. The signs on all the billboards had blown off leaving only the iron structures behind. People were working on the trees with machetes. Clearly chainsaws had been used to clear the road – only 24 hours since the storm and the road was clear. We saw uniformed officers in the larger towns, directing traffic or just standing around (preventing looting?). I have never seen this level of damage over such a large area. Category 1 is the weakest hurricane. Michigan -- so far from a coast, looks like a safer place to be, ice and all.

Vacation

In the background is a Danish fort built in the early 1600s. The water is the Bay of Bengal.

We had a 10-day break and left for Tranquebar, which is in the same state as Chennai and many hours south. On the train I felt like I was in an old movie about colonial India – watching the villages and rice paddies sweep by the train window. The hotel is a small chain that buys historically interesting buildings and restores them. The rooms are in buildings that reflect the traditional architecture – and have a very homey feel. We had warm sunny days and overcast afternoons – which kept the heat under control. 

Brightly colored houses are all over the town.

Classroom Pictures

That bench is less than four feet wide. Sometimes there are four students there.

Turns out that teaching 7^th and 8^th grade requires a different set of skills than teaching high school -- skills that I have not mastered, actually. However, at this point, we have come to a comfortable place. We are doing really well together and we are right on target for the curriculum. I have a couple students that need occasional behavioral reminders from the administration. The other day, I took a student to the principal, and when I left him to return to class, he was on his knees in front of the principal speaking quickly; it sounded like begging and pleading even though it was not in English.

Students with special needs are not given any accommodations. I can clearly see that some of the students have learning disabilities and are not capable of the work put before them. They are lost. (Lost student + lots of time sitting in class = behavior problem.) 

41 is a small class 48 is big.

Thane

Just a note to let you know that we were well south of where Thane blew through. A few small trees down here, but nothing major. The internet is even still up!

On the beach in Chennai before Christmas

Children's Day - November 20

The students made sand and chalk decorations for Children's Day. Beautiful but temporary art.

Overnight Train Ride

Most weeks, school is six days each week with Sunday off. Once each month, we have both Saturday and Sunday free. Because we have limited time to travel, I got this idea: On Friday, take the overnight train to Mysore (lovely town, unfortunate name) where we could see the Raj’s palace and tour on Saturday, then take the overnight train back to Chennai on Saturday night – which would give us Sunday to recover before school Monday. I bought the tickets, but as the date drew closer I realized we would have to carry all our luggage all day and that we would sleep badly for two nights before heading back into another long week. But we persevered. We kept our provisions low (even sliced a novel in half to cut the weight). The trip was much more successful that I had feared. May enjoyed the elephant ride and Aven was pleased to get good noodles at a hotel restaurant. I made a loud scene (very embarrassing to May) over being asked to pay a bribe to allow us to take cameras into the palace. Cameras are technically not permitted inside. However, when we got into the palace, the vast majority of Indian tourists were taking pictures with their phones. We refrained because, after the scene I caused, I did not want to give anyone a reason to hassle us. So, we have only 'outside the palace' pictures to share. Aven and May were in good spirits and loved the train rides.

Aven refuses to smile for photos - but he is looking more grown up. May is naturally photogenic.

The Maharaja's Palace

May and I on the elephant with the palace int he background.

Beautiful tree. I think the purple flowers might be a vine covering the actual tree. But it was breathtakingly beautiful.

Goofing around. The train car has the words "LIFT HERE" painted near the middle of the car. May and Aven are trying to follow that instruction.

Loved this sign because the symbol for "women" is a figure wearing a sari rather than a dress.

Wedding

Our internet was out for over two weeks! We are relieved to be back online. I have added snapshots from a wedding reception -- which takes place before the actual wedding and entails a ritual of its own. I very much enjoyed learning first-hand about marriage in south India and was delighted to meet the family. They were welcoming and we enjoyed ourselves immensely. The vast majority of marriages are still arranged (as was this one) but couples are waiting until their late 20's to marry -- much like in the US.

Meryl Streep

I've been meaning to post this picture for awhile. Did you ever wonder what Meryl Steep does in her spare time? Now you know.

Morning Assembly

Morning assembly lasts somewhere between 25 and 45 minutes. Students stand at attention for much of the time at all grade levels. Students say morning prayers and even sing the national anthem daily. Their lines must be straight and teachers spend a surprising amount of time making sure morning assembly is properly done. The reason so much emphasis is placed on things like 'standing in a straight line' is that Indian culture dictates that good personal discipline leads to academic and personal success. The morning assembly is a demonstration of personal discipline.

Students wear white uniforms on Wednesday and blue and white the other days. On a cool day, the low is 85 and the high is in the low 90's. On hot days, the temperature hits the upper 90's. It is usually right around 90 degrees in the morning. Most of the time students are in the shade, but no special compensation is made if they are standing in the direct sun.

How to Make Photocopies in India

This is a special posting for my Hazel Park colleagues, who are struggling to manage with only one photocopier in a building for almost 1,000 students.

I compose a test and want to copy it. First, I have to print it out, which requires a trip to the computer lab where the printer is kept. No paper is kept in the printer, and the computer teacher has to be tracked down to get a couple sheets. After printing, I take the original to the department head, who is a teacher and is often unavailable. She has to accompany me to the exam room, where the paper is kept. She gets out the ledger where the paper consumption is recorded. She writes down 70 sheets for a test while I count the blank copy papers. Next, I have to take the original and the paper to the vice-principal, who is also a busy person. He has to approve and initial the paper. Then, I find one of the office staff because teachers do not use the copier. The staff member will make the copies and bring them to my room within an hour or so.  This process takes, on average, three days to complete. It requires at least 30 minutes with all the time spent finding people. Also, tests should be reused and everything is double sided. Students write answers on a separate paper. Most teachers don't make copies. They dictate  questions orally and students write the _questions_ and the answers. Basically, teachers do not copy anything during the normal course of teaching. All notes are written on chalk boards and many things are dictated. Students have extremely high stamina for writing. Whew!

P.S. Exams are all copied. The exam is written over a week ahead and sent out for copying.

Modern Machines

Idly (pronounced like Freud's "Id" with an -ly on the end) and dosa (pronounced doe-sah) are the two staple 'breads' here. Most people are familiar with Indian Naan and roti, which is available but not traditional in the south. Both idly and dosa are made with the same batter of rice and dal (lentils, peas or beans). Idly and dosa are high in protein and carbs. They require grinding the rice and dal into a paste with water. The grandparents were doing this by hand while raising their children, but now a machine does the hard work. Here is the equipment for making the batter.

The old way -- stone tools now stored on a shelf.

The new way -- put the grains in with water and presto!

Close up of the grinder.

Holiday Decorations

We had a delightful tea at the home of our German teacher, Mrs. Radha. At this holiday time, statues of Gods are displayed and guests are welcomed with treats and treasures.

Our host with her daughter who captivated May by entertaining her in her bedroom and then taking her shopping!

The Gods are in order with the most important on the top.

The top Gods.

The middle tier

The lowly Gods, including the kitchen and household Gods.

Greens

Most of the time, we eat at home. Children do not have flexible palates, and we can make the “chicken or fish, noodles or rice and familiar vegetable” meal that they will eat. I am not a skilled cook, and I do not recognize most of the vegetables in the market. This leads to a monotonous diet. However, Carl gets five gold stars for making sauces with amazing spices. I miss salads, though. We can get Baskin Robbins just like home at the nearby mall. The Subway is not exactly like home, but close enough. 

When we are riding the commuter train home from school, vendors are often selling their wares from car to car. Last week, I saw a woman waving a fistful of nice looking greens. I asked the woman seated next to me what they were. She said leeks. I am sure they are not leeks, but smile and nod anyway. She added that the stems are removed and the leaves boiled in a small amount of water. Like spinach! I bought a bunch for about a quarter.

To prepare foods, we clean them as best we can. A practical training session by Fulbright included a useful bit about food preparation. Potassium permanganate (KMnO4) can be used to kill germs and other nasty things on fresh food. We add a single crystal of KMnO4 to a pan of water. It dissolves and turns the water pink. The veggies are submerged for 5 minutes and rinsed in clean water. Presto! After that, I peel what can be peeled (apples, mangos, carrots) and cook everything else (potatoes, carrots, my new mystery greens). So far so good. The mangos are out of season, but I buy them anyhow. The bananas and papaya are great. Pomegranate is readily available and tasty too. 

We had mystery greens again this week. I got two bunches from the same woman on the train. 

Photos of Aven and May

Did I mention that she likes pink?

Ignoring having a photo taken

Chalk Drawings

 People frequently make lovely designs on the sidewalk or street outside their front doors. They do this to bring favorable luck and to ward off undesired forces. The chalk drawings are walked on and disappear as the day goes by. They are sometimes refreshed in the evening. Most are simply with white chalk, but some use colored chalk or colored powder sprinkled into the design. Here is a sampling.

The kids' feet in their school uniform shoes

Hospital Visit

The kids and I walked into the hospital with Stephen, who was visiting and came down with a fever of 103 and digestive ‘issues’ just two days before departure. I did not want him on the plane if he had dengue fever or malaria – which could get frighteningly worse during the trip. We were in search of blood tests.

The nurse asked for the nature of the problem. She listened and then directed us to office number 2. The nurse came in and took vitals. Oddly, no one had yet asked him to fill out any forms. A hospital without forms? The stickers on the wall were for human rabies vaccines.

The doctor came in within five minutes and asked for Stephen’s name. “Mr. Stephen” was all she wrote on the paper. She listened carefully to the story and ordered the tests he wanted and suggested a test for “rat fever” – which was a new one to both of us. We were then shown to the lab, which was actually a lab. On the counters were half-filled bottles of solutions, a centrifuge and various pieces of glassware. The room had a computer desk and one chair for the patient. Most interesting were the eight jars on the top shelf with small human fetuses in preservative. The jars were of various sizes and they looked like they had a layer of wax to seal the tops. The specimens were probably around eight inches long, but they were curled in the expected fetal position. Not something you see every day. I would have taken a picture, but I did not want to be macabre. In retrospect, given that displaying them was acceptable, a photo would probably have been OK. The man at the computer said the tests would cost 1,500 rupees ($33) and wanted to make sure he still wanted them. Yes, absolutely.

After the blood draw, we were asked to wait 30 minutes. We were directed back to the waiting area. The cashier counter was in the waiting area, and a man collected the testing fees but did not ask for Stephen’s name. Then, we waited. Did I mention that the hospital did not have air conditioning? The kids mentioned this a number of times during the wait. The tests came back 30 minutes later – all negative. We were asked to go to the doctor’s office again. Her diagnosis was Montezuma’s revenge – though that was not the term she used. She added five drug names to the same paper where she had written “Mr. Stephen” and the order for the tests. She explained each medicine and wrote the dosages and durations. Then, she handed Stephen the paper and we were free to go. This means that the hospital did not have any record of Stephen’s name anymore. He paid for the office visit, 100 rupees ($2.20), and walked to the pharmacy counter. The drugs were under $10. In case you were counting, the total cost (including immediate consultation with the doctor, blood testing, antibiotic and anti-protozoan, Tylenol and pro-biotics to mitigate the effect of the antibiotic) was under $45 USD. Not to mention the value of a great story. Stephen is now back in the US and is completely recovered.

Favorite sign: “Leprosy is completely curable.” This was a public service poster.